If the dry vs. dehydrated skin conundrum feels like just another skincare riddle to unravel now, know that some skincare products are designed to add both moisture (to address dryness) and hydration (to address dehydration) to the face. That can help simplify your go-forward plan. Valerie Aparovich, a biochemist and certified cosmetologist-aesthetician at OnSkin, says to look for a combination of humectants, emollients, and occlusives — which is the ingredient behind the derm and TikTok-approved slugging trend — to restore moisture and hydration. (We’ll get into the differences between all three of these, as well as more hydration hacks, soon.)
What happens if dry or dehydrated skin is left unchecked? Dr. Liv Kraemer MD, a board-certified dermatologist and Founder of Dr Liv Skin Clinic & Dr Liv Skincare, says the “consequences are the same” for both skin states. Chronically dehydrated skin can lead to acne breakouts, itching, and a loss of skin elasticity, making the face more prone to fine lines, wrinkles, and sagging with time. (Meaning that, yes, wrinkles from dehydration are real!) Meanwhile, severely dry skin can also lead to elasticity loss, as well as itchiness and acne.
Ultimately, knowing how to look out for the signs of both dehydrated skin and dry skin ensures you’re not wasting time and money on addressing one without considering the potential role of the other. For each driver of persistently parched skin, we’ll dig into the signs that derms and other skincare experts shared with us so that you know what you’re looking for.
What are the signs your face isn’t properly moisturized or hydrated?
1. Your complexion looks dull.
Aparovich says that “a lack of hydration robs the skin of its natural glow, resulting in a flat, lifeless appearance. It also exacerbates uneven texture and tone, preventing light from reflecting as it would on hydrated skin.”
That said, a dull complexion can also be a result of dryness. Dr. Mraz says that dry skin “lacks a bouncy, dewy glow. It can even look tight and more pale than usual.”
2. Your facial skin feels tight, especially after washing it.
Dr. Shereene Idriss, a board-certified dermatologist and founder of Idriss Dermatology, says that “dehydrated skin lacks elasticity, which can feel uncomfortable and tight, especially after washing.” This sensation “often means your skin’s barrier is compromised,” she adds, “reducing its ability to retain moisture and leaving it more susceptible to environmental damage.”
3. Your face is itchy, sore, or red.
When skin is dry, its barrier — or outermost layer — is weakened, Dr. Mraz says. The result? Skin that’s “compromised and more vulnerable to outside irritants, ranging from skincare products and environmental impurities to weather conditions,” she says.
These irritants “are able to penetrate and cause inflammation and irritation. This can leave skin red, itchy, and sore,” she says. “Sometimes the inflammation is even visible, leaving your skin looking puffy and raised.”
Itchy, irritated skin can also be a symptom of dehydration. Noticing that even long-time favorite products are suddenly causing adverse reactions? That makes sense, given Dr. Poonawalla’s explanation that “dehydrated skin tends to overreact to products that wouldn’t normally irritate it.”
4. Fine lines are more visible than usual.
Hydrated and moisturized skin “instantly plumps up and blurs fine lines and wrinkles,” Dr. Mraz says. She notes the “opposite is true for dry, dehydrated skin. When the skin lacks moisture, these fine lines can appear more pronounced.”
