Tenerife is shaking off its reputation for package tourism, but it’s not something that’s going to happen overnight. In the four years my family and I have spent Christmas in Tenerife, we’ve uncovered a soulful side of the island — one of volcanic peaks, ancient ports, and bougainvillea-draped farmhouses.
Admittedly, the climate helps; it’s consistently up to 20°C higher than UK winter temperatures despite being a mere 4-hour flight away.
The Tais Hotels
The Tais Hotels
Our journey begins in Garachico, a historic port town which survived plague and volcanic eruptions in the 17th century and feels like a step back in time. Cobblestone streets take you past pastel-coloured houses and churches where the air is heavy with frankincense. This is Tenerife at its most authentic: sip an iced coffee in the Plaza de la Libertad, where locals linger under the palms, or try grilled octopus with garlicky aioli at El Caletón, a restaurant perched on volcanic rocks with a playlist of Latin reggae. On calm evenings you can swim from the rocks here as the waves swell around you. Despite the warm sunshine, the sea is too rough during our visit and the scene shifts to the sheltered bay next door where the more adventurous leap from the harbour wall into the water, while others queue politely at the iron steps. ‘Feliz Navidad’ echoes around us in a medley of accents.
